Taghazout
Last week, I uploaded some photos to FaceBook. I wrote in the description box, ‘Holiday in Taghazout. Was filthy, hot, smelly, shitty – no one avoids the runs in Arabia – the government is oppressive, the poverty rank. In short, it was quality’.
I kept a diary, sometimes in detail, others brushing over the surface. I was not sure I’d painted a coherent narrative, yet, when I went over it, as I copied it into the computer, I was surprised, maybe because I ramble too much, maybe because most journals are self-absorbed dross, that I’d produced a reasonably succinct piece. I captured what I thought well.
The first days I entered a Mark Renton style detox, ‘As soon as a become aware ay the sickness gripping me, if effortlessly moves from the uncomfortable tae the unbearable. A toothache starts tae spread fae ma teeth intae ma jaws and ma eye sockets, and aw through ma bones in a miserable, implacable, debilitating throb’. Panics of the past were not far behind.
The middle days find me asleep and the latter days running around. At each stage, however, the poverty of the place gnawed at me, and, unpredictably, but not unsurprisingly, I was pulled gently back into 1980s Hull. I found myself thinking of school friends, my step-father and his old van, and, not without George Orwell tapping on the inside of my head, I dreamed about societal maturation/degradation.
What I never mention, however, because it was obvious to me, was how much fun I was having. If I was reviewing our holiday for a newspaper, it would get 5 out of 5. And so, for those who are interested, I want to post an entry a day, to try and build up the place as it revealed itself to me. I will start tomorrow, Wednesday the 29th of September, exactly two weeks after I left.
[About 8 a.m..]
When I ran on Monday, I noticed a pack of wild dogs appear from the camouflage, and therefore they looked like they appeared from nowhere. [Two of them,] a copper dog and copper and white dog, they looked like brothers, followed me out today, breaking step to chase a bird on the sea. All round frolicking. …
[About three in the afternoon]
I’m drinking coke now like that bloke who put his wife in the swimming pool in Cocoon after she was dead. We’ve got the shits. We were coked out yesterday, both with sugary, ‘clacky’, mouths. (With this in mind, you might be surprised how little alcohol has to do with a hangover. …
20th September, early.
I finally got out for a run today, the 1/2 marathon is in 4 weeks and I am woefully under prepared. This morning I had to drag myself up and down the beach.
Tagazout continues to reveal herself to me. The road in from Agadir runs along the back of the beach. The village is hidden …
19th of September, about 17:30.
Last night I slept on the couch. My sickness was reaching some kind of head-achey climax. I couldn’t get off the couch so Andrea left me there. I woke early and finally refreshed. [I am sure my earlier dreams where related to my exhaustion.] Andrea slept long enough for me to …
18th of September, 2010, 12/13:??, Agadir.
We finally got moving at about 11. We parked up the other end of the seafront and walked down. Within yards we encountered a beggar who looked like she’d urinated against the car she was squatting against. Moments later, we came across a Thomas Cook hotel and just sauntered in, casual like. Maybe a hundred …
Friday the 17th of September, 2010, 7:35.
When I went to bed I was transported to Stalingrad. This I could handle. Waking up, however, was scary. I was in a house on Beverley road, one of those posh ones. It was much too big. My ex came in, a guest of a friend of a friend, maybe. She was well impressed. …
Thursday, 16th of September, 2010, 16:00.
Our flight in yesterday was more or less fine, but the landing in Marrakech v. heavy and the hop to Agadir rocky. The queue at immigration was stubby, the visitors formed a square behind 5 or 7 open booths. All names were recorded by hand. This was the first clue to this place.
After we got …
Wednesday the 16th, I think, 2010, 14:0?, Schiphol.
I woke up today thinking, ‘I can’t wait to sleep in Morocco’. So, here we are then, on the road again, getting ready to create a slither of separation anxiety between us and Amsterdam in the hope that we’ll appreciate her again. That and some sun and some sleep; the last …